Tag: link g4x

Fans

As mentioned in my previous post, my radiator fan did not work after installing the Link (same with A/C). After doing some googling, I suspected the fans could’ve been locked out due to no A/C gas.

Looking at the wiring diagram for the fan setup on an earlier model Swift Sport (ZC31S) I decided this was unlikely. I had the A/C gas reinstated and there was no change. Notably, the A/C compressor requires jumping to trigger.

Reviewing the diagram, I believe there is something internally inside the ECU that is unhappy with the “IGN ON” state. Refusing to trigger (pull down) the outputs to the radiator fan and A/C compressor relays. – refer green “fucked?” circles. I discuss more about it in this post I made on the Link Forum.

Above image is how I ended up wiring the fans via the Link, it works perfectly! On low speed, at idle the fan was able to drop the temp nicely. As we enter the depths of Summer it will be good to see how high speed goes. My logic for fan control is below. Note, the image of the laptop below doesn’t show current settings.

LOW: Coolant temperature > 93C (3C hysteresis)
HIGH: Coolant temperature > 100C (4C hysteresis)

Unfortunately, I am now out of aux outputs and will require one to get A/C working via the Link (if I choose to do so).

I have a few options for triggering the A/C compressor. The factory ECU appears to trigger the compressor relay output when receiving a CAN message from the press of the A/C button in the car.

From my research, I believe the car (and most late model Suzuki’s) runs the bus on 500Kbp/s. As I have the CAN lambda installed on 1Mbp/s, I would need to drop the bus to 500 Kbp/s and sniff out the A/C request in order to get the Link to control the compressor output. If I go with this option, I will make the Link fan output be single speed, HIGH (Aux 4) and the LOW speed would become the A/C compressor (Aux 5).

The alternative is run a secondary CAN device, such as the Canny C7 which could control the compressor relay output as a standalone device. This could be preferable as the Link CAN bus would be completely separate to the OEM ECU.

Updated wiring table is below.

Loom Fit & Variable Intake Runners

With the wiring (mostly) complete I went ahead and married up the loom to the engine. I am fairly happy with how everything sits. Unfortunately, I lost the factory tie down points for the injector harness due to the adapters I’m using but I can make something work.

I also wired in 2 relays with will act as reversing relays to control the variable intake runners. I toyed with the idea of just locking them in the long position as they can’t be deleted (easily) with this plastic intake manifold – which I’m praying holds up OK to the boost level I’m running. If I go for a bigger turbo down the line I will definitely need to source a ZC31S intake manifold (cast alloy).

The tuner, Rob, thinks that there will be good benefits in having the link control the runners, especially down low. I am once again thanking KAPOW who made a post on the Link forums detailing how to control it. There’s even a great video documenting the logic from Link staff! I have wired it pretty much exactly per the post – it came up pretty well.

Interestingly, the range of motion is very small, like 15-20 degrees.

I ended up re-routing the water line nearest to the dump pipe following advice from other turbo swift owners. Now both the feed and return are on the cold side. I am yet to nail down the feed point but I have some ideas, the tricky part will be avoiding chafing. I also added some heat wrap to the AC lines.

With that, there really isn’t too much more to do other than get the clutch on, bolt the gearbox up and slap the assembly in. I got the flywheel machined last week and fit the concentric slave – all looks good! I will also fit the factory right angle oil filter housing as I realized my current position will make the oil filter very hard to change, I would need to remove the oil cooler lines every time I change the filter…

Wiring Part 2

Finally… The wiring is done!

My crimping skills continued to grow, as did the cramps in my hands.

After all was said and done, I checked each end where I had spliced into the factory wiring with a multimeter. I found two wires, the TPS signal (GRN) and Ignition 3 (BRN) which I had incorrectly tapped in to. This was easily fixed and happened due to there being multiple GRN and BRN coloured wires.

I also left plenty of extra cabling left for the tuner. Where he needs to weld bungs and install sensors – CAN Lambda and Intake Air Temperature (IAT).

I am quite pleased with the results and have begun to tape everything up. You can see in the images below that I have also crimped on the sensor ends, and replaced the Delphi 3-pin connector mentioned in my last post.

I also finally got some 3/4 UNF jam nuts to tighten down my oil filter stud. Local bolt shop even gave them to me free, bless them. Oil filter sandwich plate is now in, with various fittings tightened with a bit of teflon tape.

Wiring Part 1

I finally broke the back on wiring. It took a lot of trial and error with open barrel splices to figure out the right die and pressure for my ratcheting crimper, but I am very happy with the results. Just look at that crimp!

I currently have half the wiring done, with the remainder being all the OEM signal taps:

  • Crank position
  • Cam angle
  • Throttle position
  • Ignition coil(s)
  • Injector(s)

I have left extra loom for the tuner so he can just cut it back and wire in the sensors that require welded bungs – Intake Air Temp (IAT) and a Link CAN Lambda.

I also mounted the Link with the supplied bracket using riv-nuts, pretty happy with how it turned out.

Unfortunately, I wrecked one of the pins on the fuel pressure sensor so I will need to procure another connector just to steal some pins. To my knowledge, it’s a Delphi/GM connector.

Here is an updated wiring table for what is left. “y” indicates done, “R” is for the tuner, blank is another day…

ECU Wiring

As promised, this post will document ECU wiring. I will be wiring in a Link G4X MonsoonX in a “piggyback” style. Below is a wiring table on what I plan to do.

I have seperated the loom and marked the cam and crank sensor. There will be some figuring out to do on the cam and potentially crank signals as I know they differ from the ZC32S (which Haltech has documentation on).

Unfortunately, there is very little information on aftermarket ECUs in these cars and a lot of people report odd issues with cheaper options like AEM and GReddy E-manage (E-Mangle).

I’ll also need to decide what I do about the variable intake runners either:
a) try to remove it
b) replace with ZC31S intake (may require further head drilling, new intake piping)
c) use the Link to control it (looks doable)

If you made it this far, below are images of the ZC32S ECU wiring for your reference. I found these extremely hard to find, hopefully this helps others. I cross checked a lot of the wire colours and it all aligns, will need to check with a multimeter to be sure.

To view in full resolution, right click and open image in new tab.