Wiring Part 2

Finally… The wiring is done!

My crimping skills continued to grow, as did the cramps in my hands.

After all was said and done, I checked each end where I had spliced into the factory wiring with a multimeter. I found two wires, the TPS signal (GRN) and Ignition 3 (BRN) which I had incorrectly tapped in to. This was easily fixed and happened due to there being multiple GRN and BRN coloured wires.

I also left plenty of extra cabling left for the tuner. Where he needs to weld bungs and install sensors – CAN Lambda and Intake Air Temperature (IAT).

I am quite pleased with the results and have begun to tape everything up. You can see in the images below that I have also crimped on the sensor ends, and replaced the Delphi 3-pin connector mentioned in my last post.

I also finally got some 3/4 UNF jam nuts to tighten down my oil filter stud. Local bolt shop even gave them to me free, bless them. Oil filter sandwich plate is now in, with various fittings tightened with a bit of teflon tape.

Wiring Part 1

I finally broke the back on wiring. It took a lot of trial and error with open barrel splices to figure out the right die and pressure for my ratcheting crimper, but I am very happy with the results. Just look at that crimp!

I currently have half the wiring done, with the remainder being all the OEM signal taps:

  • Crank position
  • Cam angle
  • Throttle position
  • Ignition coil(s)
  • Injector(s)

I have left extra loom for the tuner so he can just cut it back and wire in the sensors that require welded bungs – Intake Air Temp (IAT) and a Link CAN Lambda.

I also mounted the Link with the supplied bracket using riv-nuts, pretty happy with how it turned out.

Unfortunately, I wrecked one of the pins on the fuel pressure sensor so I will need to procure another connector just to steal some pins. To my knowledge, it’s a Delphi/GM connector.

Here is an updated wiring table for what is left. “y” indicates done, “R” is for the tuner, blank is another day…

ECU Wiring

As promised, this post will document ECU wiring. I will be wiring in a Link G4X MonsoonX in a “piggyback” style. Below is a wiring table on what I plan to do.

I have seperated the loom and marked the cam and crank sensor. There will be some figuring out to do on the cam and potentially crank signals as I know they differ from the ZC32S (which Haltech has documentation on).

Unfortunately, there is very little information on aftermarket ECUs in these cars and a lot of people report odd issues with cheaper options like AEM and GReddy E-manage (E-Mangle).

I’ll also need to decide what I do about the variable intake runners either:
a) try to remove it
b) replace with ZC31S intake (may require further head drilling, new intake piping)
c) use the Link to control it (looks doable)

If you made it this far, below are images of the ZC32S ECU wiring for your reference. I found these extremely hard to find, hopefully this helps others. I cross checked a lot of the wire colours and it all aligns, will need to check with a multimeter to be sure.

To view in full resolution, right click and open image in new tab.